Eating Through Old Quebec: A Winter Food Walk

Old Quebec is small enough to eat your way across in an afternoon, and in winter the walking between stops doubles as a way to stay warm. We spent about five hours and 60 Canadian dollars per person, including coffee stops.

The route, in order

Start with a croissant and coffee near Rue Saint-Jean, then walk to a fromagerie for cheese curds, the base of any good poutine. Lunch is poutine or a tourtiere plate in a bistro; the classic version uses fresh curds that squeak, dark gravy and double-fried fries. In the afternoon, work through the chocolate and fudge shops on Rue du Petit-Champlain and Rue Saint-Paul, then finish with maple taffy rolled on snow.

Winter Carnival specialities

If you are there in late January or February, the Carnival adds outdoor food stands, Caribou (a mulled drink), beaver tails and the ice canoe race on the Saint Lawrence. The night parade is free and the route is published each year; dress for standing still in the cold.

Practical notes

• Most bistros stop serving between 14:00 and 17:00, so plan a proper lunch.
• Tipping is expected in sit-down restaurants: 15 to 18 percent before tax.
• Many shops close on Monday and Tuesday in low season; check opening hours first.

Vegetarians will find good options, but traditional Quebec plates are meat-heavy, so read the menu rather than assume.